Miuccia Prada's latest collection for Fall Fashion Week 2013, had an endless amounts of classical designs. I begin discussing Fashion Week with Prada because I’ve observed that she is ever so clear with her retro references, by the way she revolutionized the traditional pencil, flared, and dirndl skirt. The skirts grabbed my attention immediately, as they relate to my current FD111 course project at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Prada has proved that the best of fashion, sticking to the fundamentals of draping, and assemble elements of the past to forge a look and mood that are in fact very new. Prada begins with the standard pencil skirt, and suite jacket and seamlessly warps the basic pencil skirt into an invigorating new look by using dart manipulation; adding extra drape to the side of the pencil skirt.
As I look forward into what we will be accomplishing in FD111, our next project consists of the bodice, and eventually connecting the bodice to the flared skirt and the hip yolk. Prada continuously uses this basic design, as shown in Picture 1, paired with a wool fabric, in grey-autumn palette, redefining the lady-suite. What’s genius about this collection is how she takes simple look, and overly emphasizes the ¾ cuff sleeve, and drapes in all the right places. Next, we have a lavish fur jacket; same silhouette, paired with a striped blue and mustard dart-manipulated pencil skirt; on most every piece. Whether it’s a jacket, blouse, or dress, this woman is making a statement in the Office, and on the streets. She portrays this elegant and powerful woman with feminine flair.
Through my fashionista research, I’ve discovered Ports 1961 to represent the same traditional elegance. This collection contains the reoccurring trend, fabric, silhouette, colors and shapes as Prada does. The simplicity of it is fascinating. “Lee Radziwill’s impeccable elegance served as the main inspiration for Fiona Cibani’s well-executed lineup, which combined sharp, minimal silhouettes with feminine accents.” Adds WWDMagazine.com. Cibani uses knit, wool, and silk fabrics in striking shades of grey. She effortlessly jumps back and forth with the classics; over-the knee-flared skirt and the pencil skirt. Not to mention, the perfect touch of fur on each paired jacket that every designer seems to love for Fall 2013.
Moving forward, Gucci has caught my eye on the runway. The collection is strong, powerful, confident — and a little dangerous to say the least. What intrigues me about this line is that she took the pencil skirt, and has fun with manipulating the hip yolks. Structured silhouettes, sculptural lines, pronounced shoulders, rounded and slightly raised. The dress shape is constant; to the body, and fitted. I noticed a mixture of the Straight sleeve and fitted sleeves, similar to what we’ve prepared in class. The color palette is tasteful; deep-sea blue tones, with a hint of grey and black. I’m fascinated by how she pulls the re-occurring trend together with a unique edge. The mix matching of patterns is brilliant, along side the black to blue ombre cropped fur jacket. This collection is exclusive. “Most often she kept the attention on the silhouette; seemed to have one purpose only: to offer a flamboyant, edgy but feminine update on classic designs.” (www.style.com)
What I’ve concluded from my research is as simple as it seems. These designers are going “back to the basics” by embodying traditional silhouettes of design. These styles are timeless. However, each designer interestingly brings a unique twist of this to the runway. All in all, Each Designer portrayed a similar palette in the gradation of grays to sea blues; and using a repetition of knit, wool, and silk fabrics. Fur is the current trend. The “Overarching” theme seems to be a “powerful woman vibe.” These Ready-to-wear collections are undeniably making a statement. In appreciation to Professor Karp, I proactively have a greater understanding of the fundamentals of draping, which are observably used in the industry that I can now distinguish. I look forward to learning much more in FD111, as we only just begun!
